Camels Aweigh!

Camels, what’s not to like? They are haughty but kindly, patient but laconic. They understand human nature, then spit on it.

In Dunhuang, an oasis town between the Gobi and Taklamakan deserts, there are camels galore. Hundreds. We thought that by staying 15 minutes’ walk from where the camels are kept, at the Ming Sha sanddunes, and being there at 5.30AM, we would have a good chance to have some uninterrupted camel riding.

Unfortunately about 3,000 mainland tourists had the same idea. At 5.30 in the morning? It was still dark when we got there, for Christ’s sakes. Yes, I suppose the whole country is on holiday in August so we can’t blame them. Off-season is better, but then how about the melons and grapes? they’ll be off season too! Ah, the eternal conundrum …

I don’t know if you’ve ever sat high up on a camel riding into a huge desert, but I can tell you, it’s a spiritual experience. At least for someone who loves camels and deserts. Up there between the floppy humps, feeling the great back muscles work under the saddle, it’s a time to reflect on life and stuff, especially when the sun sees fit to rise at the same time.

What I got was four teenagers riding in line right behind my camel, screaming at the top of their voices, singing pop songs and talking on their phones. Ahhrghhh, so much for quiet reflection.

There are 8000 visitors a day at the Ming Sha sand dunes in Dunhuang, and if it opens at 5.00 and is already packed by 5.30AM – when is the right time? Maybe in winter? But of course it was worth the money and having my eardrums pierced, just to be on the coolest dudes of the animal kingdom apart from cool dudes: Joe Camel. Without filter.